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Saturday, September 11, 2010

Holy Shoulder DIY

Here are the instructions I had promised on making your own holy shoulder shirt.

Materials and Supplies Needed

-Sewing Machine
-T-Shirt Knit Fabric (Jersey works best) approximatly 1.2m (1 1/4 yard)  Be sure to pre-shrink your fabric (wash it as you would your completed garment) or else after you wash it you might end up with a top that's too small
-Thread to Match
-Large Paper (Or lots of pieces taped together)
-Measuring Tape
-Tailors Chalk
-sewing pins (optional)


1. Using your measuring tape, measure from the middle of your neck to wherever on your arm you want the sleeve to hit.  Measure the circumference of that spot on your arm.  Measure from your neck down to where you want the shirt hem to hit.  Measure around your torso right under your bust.
Write all these measurements down.

2.  Using the drawing below as a guide draw up your pattern.  Keep in mind that this pattern shown will be used for the front and back, and also for both sides of your body, but we only need to draw one.
For the top line draw a stright line the length of the first measurement.
From the right end of that line draw a line down, perpendicular to it,  1/2 the measurement of your sleeve circumference.
From the left side of the top line draw another line perpendicular to it, the measurement of your shirt length.
From the bottom of this new line draw a line straight out (parrallel to the first line) 1/4 of your underbust measurement.
From the end of that line draw a line straight up halfway to the top.
If you want your shirt to have a handkerchief hem like mine draw a line approximatly 15cm (6") out from the end of the bottom line.
3.  Now it's time to draw in the curves.  Once again use the illustration below as a guide.
From the top of the side seam draw a curved line joining it to the sleeve hem.  You can make the line more straight as you get closer to the sleeve hem (as shown).
If you are wanting the handkerchief hem Start your curve halfway down the side seam line and join it to the end of the line you drew out 15cm from the hem.

The coloured writing and lines on this illustration give you a few more design options.  Click on the picture to enlarge it.
4.  Now that your pattern is complete you can cut it out around the lines.

5.  Take your fabric and fold it 4 times.  The first time you want to fold it in half so that when the fabric is comepletely opened the two raw cut edges meet up.  Then fold it in half so that the finished edges (selvage edges) meet up (so now there should be 4 edges to match up).

When you make this shirt you want the greatest degree of stretch to go around your body so keep that in mind when you're laying out your pattern onto the fabric.

6.  Place your pattern onto the fabric so that the top edge of your pattern lines up with the first fold you made, and the side edge of the pattern (the center front/center back) lines up with the last fold you made.
Cut out fabric.  It is VERY important that you lay out the pattern right so that both edges are on folds...otherwise you will end up with 4 pieces instead of 1.

7.  Open up your fabric so that it is no longer folded in half down the center front/center back, but still folded at the top sleeve/neck line.  Sew the sides of the shirt together using a small seam allowance (1cm ish) from the sleeve hem to the side hem using a stretch stitch (slight zig-zag works great).  Make sure that you are sewing the fabric so that the right sides are together on the inside because you don't want it inside out!

8.  Fold the shirt back in half along the center front/back line.
Draw in where you are going to cut out the neck hole.  Approximatly 12cm (4 3/4") out from the center and 4cm (1 1/2") down from the top.  To be on the safe side you can cut it out even smaller, you just have to make sure you can fit your head through!

9.  Try on your shirt (keeping it inside out).  While it's on, using your tailors chalk draw on where you want your cut outs to be and also draw where you want to cut out your neckline a bit more (if required).  I cut mine so that it went slightly lower in the front than the back.

10. Remove your shirt and lay it flat with it folded in half down the center.  Cut where you marked.  This is if you want it symetrical, otherwise leave it unfolded and just cut wherever you please!

To make my neckline lower in the front I folded my shirt in half only along the center front, so that my side seams matched up and then only cut through the front layer of my shirt.

All Done!

I realize that these instructions are quite long and seem slightly difficult...but they're not as long as you follow all the steps and look at my drawings.  It only took me about 10 minutes to actually construct this shirt, the pattern took a bit longer to draft (because I was making it up as I went)...but I'm pretty sure even a beginner sewer could finish this whole process in under and hour.


Boutzie' said...

Yes, and I just brought a new simple black t-shirt.

Thank you so much.

Collette Osuna said...

How cool!!! Thanks for posting this!! What an awesome idea and great way to re-work new older clothes!!

Statements in Fashion

Two For Tea said...

What an awesome idea...shoulder details are so in this season!

Thanks for commenting on my blog! You can definitely follow us on Bloglovin' or Google...and I'll for certain be following yours :)

shybiker said...

Great idea. A simple thing that adds real interest and pizzazz to a shirt. Thanks!

Niki B. said...

awesome DIY! thanks for sharing the instructions, i love seeing how people actually made their DIYs

Brianna said...

This top look awesome on you, I'm going to have to try this!