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Saturday, August 6, 2011

Drafting This Shirt

I've been asked a few times to include a pattern reference when the clothing item I am wearing is selfmade, but quite often that is impossible because I often draft the patterns myself.  I know there were a few people who wanted to know what pattern I had used for this top (which is the same as this orange one, and this turquoise one) so I've put together a little tutorial on how I drafted the pattern.

  •  I started by folding a tank top in half along the center front and laying it out on a piece of banquet paper. 
  • I traced around the tank top a bit wider because the tank was knit, and I was making my top from a woven fabric so I needed it to be a bit larger since it can't stretch. 
  • I made the straps about an inch and a half wide.
  • I drew in the back neckline much higher than the front (totally optional of couse).
  • I flared out the hem about 7" starting from just above the waist.

  • Measure from under the armpits to the center front and multiply this by four, then measure around your chest and compare the two measurements.  You want the first measurement to be at least two inches larger so you have the right amount of ease.
  • I drew a slight curve to the hem so that it would go up slightly in the front/back.
  • Out of your fabric you will cut out one front piece and one back piece along the fold.
  • If you don't have enough fabric to cut both pieces on the fold you can cut the back piece out so that there is a seam down the center back.
  • I sewed my shirts using a 1/4"-1/2" seam allowance. 
  • Because I'm extremely lazy instead of hemming and finishing the armholes/neckline properly I serged them using my rolled hem setting.  If this is not an option for you, you can:
-Turn under the edges and sew your own rolled hem.
-Create facing pieces and fully face the neckline and armholes, hem like normal.
-Sew around all openings approximately 3/8" in from the edge, and allow the ends to fray.

If you have any questions feel free to email me!

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