Shop Activewear

Thursday, June 7, 2012

Altering a Basic Skirt Pattern to Make a Peplum Pencil Skirt

I know that many on my blog readers also make their own clothes, so I thought that I would do a quick post on how I altered a basic skirt pattern to make this peplum pencil skirt.

Start by laying out your front and back skirt pieces.  I made the hem of my skirt hit about 3 inches below my knee...this is an extremely flattering length for a pencil skirt. 
Find where your knee hits on your pattern by measuring lengthwise on your pattern pieces down the same measurement from your waist to your knees.  Be sure to take into consideration that your pattern also has a seam allowance at the top of the skirt. 
Draw a line on your pattern where your knee line is, and then measure down 3 inches plus 1 inch for a hem allowance.
Now measure across the front skirt pattern piece at the hip line from the center front to the side seam.  Then measure across and mark on the hem line (on the side seam side) the skirt hip measurement minus 1 inch.  Draw a straight line from an inch below the hip line to the mark you just made on the hemline.  The reason for this is that the most flattering shape for a pencil skirt is for the skirt be slightly narrower at the hem.  Repeat this along the back pattern piece.
Draft your peplum piece using this pattern, but in step one use the waist measurement of the skirt pattern, not your own + 1 inch, and finish only up to step four.  Keep in mind that you will need to add a bit of length to the pattern for a hem allowance.  I actually skipped this on my skirt because instead of hemming my peplum I used a flame to slightly singe the edges so that they wouldn't fray.  This can only be done with man made fibres, and I highly recommend testing it out on a scrap of fabric first.
When it comes to construction your skirt the only thing you have to do differently is remember to sew the peplum to the top of the skirt before you add the waist band/waist facing.  Make sure before you do this that you turn and sew under the center back pieces of the peplum (which you would likely do while you hemmed the peplum).  

No comments: