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Saturday, May 24, 2014

Reversible Flounced Crop Top DIY

The idea for this cropped top came from this shirt worn by Vika Gazinskaya (also her design).  I had saved the image of her wearing the top in my phone a few months back, and stumbled across it again last week...I realized that the design was so simple, I knew immediately I could make my own.  I'll get around to making a striped one eventually, and I'll make the neckline of that one higher.  That's the great thing about this project, you can easily alter the height and width of the neckline along with the length of the top!
Reversible Shirt Instructions, Floral Print Top
I've been wanting to make crop tops from this fabric for a year now (back when I made the skirts from the fabric, I made sure to buy enough fabric to make matching crop tops) so this was the perfect design to make both at once!

Materials and Supples
-Fabric (2 contrasting or complimentary fabrics)
-Thread to Match
-Sewing machine
-Fabric Scissors
-Ruler/Measuring Tape
-Paper and a Pencil for the Pattern

*Before you get started on this top you need to decide how high on your body you want the neckline to be, how wide at the top you want the neckline and how long you want the shirt to be.*

1.  Draw a line on a large piece of paper that measures 2x the length of the shirt plus the width of the neckline.
2.  Starting from one side of that line measure over the length of the shirt and put a mark here, then from there measure and mark the width of the neckline, the last section of the line should also measure the length of the top.
3.  From the two points that you marked on the line measure down the length of the shirt, mark and then draw a line between the two marks.
4.  Draw a curved line on each side joining the bottom line to the top line.  If you measure from one of the points on the top line to the curved line the distance should always be the length of the top.  Basically you're drawing a rectangle that has two 1/4 circles on each side.
You should add a seam allowance all around your pattern now, I sewed mine together with a 1cm (3/8") seam allowance.
5.  Next you need to draw a piece that joins the front and back of the shirt under the armpit.  It's hard for me to tell you the exact size you need this, so you will likely have to hold your front and back pieces on your body (or a dress form) to see how much space (the width at the top of the armpit piece) is needed between the front at back side seams so that the top will fit properly around you.  The bottom of this piece should be a couple inches wide.  The height of this piece (shown in pink) should be the same height as the measurement from the bottom of your shirt to just below your arm pit.
6.  Out of your fabric you want to cut out 2 of each piece, and 2 more of each piece for the reversible side for a total of 4 of each piece.  
When you cut out the body piece make sure you transfer the neckline width marks from the pattern to the fabric.
For my top I cut 2 body pieces from the pink print, 2 body pieces from the green print, and all 4 armpit pieces from the green print because I wanted to tie in the green print on the straps (I didn't make mine reversible) with the pink print side as well.
7.  Sew the armpit pieces to the body pieces making sure to match up the bottom edges.  You should end up with a somewhat circular piece.
Repeat for the reversible side.
8.  Try on the top, holding the top in place at the neckline width marks (you might want someone to hold it on you, or pin it in place to the shirt you're wearing).  Measure over your shoulders from the front to the back to see how long you need to make the straps.
9.  Cut out the fabric for two straps, be sure to include seam allowances.  You either need 4 pieces that are the width of the strap (plus seam allowance) by the length of the strap (plus seam allowance) or 2 pieces that are double the width of the strap (plus S.A.) by the length of the strap (plus S.A.), which is what I did.
10.  Pin the straps onto you top, lining up the outer edge with each neckline mark so that the strap width goes in towards the middle of the neckline.
11.  Pin the reversible side of the top onto your top piece all around the inner circle opening, sandwiching the straps between the two layers.  You will likely have to maneuver your fabric around the straps to get it all pinned properly in place.
 12.  Sew around the inner circle.
13.  Flip the fabric right sides out.
14.  Press the upper edge of your top so that neither side of the fabric shows from the opposite side.  Pin the inner circle edge all around, and top stitch so that the fabric stays in place.
15.  Hem both sides of the top, and you're done!
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